VI: Marshmallow

How and why marshmallows don't contain marshmallow.

sextidi, the 16th of Thermidor, Year CCXXXI
An althaea mellowing near the marsh. Photo by Hilal Aksoy / Unsplash

Good morning. Today is sextidi, the 16th of Thermidor, Year CCXXXI. We celebrate la guimauve, a broad-petaled flower that created a confectionary craze.

💡
These lovely flowers have many edible and useful parts. Both the flower petals and the leaves are edible and can either be added fresh to salads or fried into a standalone snack. And the roots contain a high amount of mucilage, which is helpful for clearing up congested throats. (Or, in the case of Turkish rug makers, as an emulsifying agent to make vegetable dyes more vibrant.) Recipes for making a cough syrup using mallow root and honey date all the way back to ancient Egypt, with each culture that encountered the concoction putting their own spin on it. Which brings us to how the French invented the fluffy white sugar pillow that has nothing to do with this flower, at least not anymore...

At the time of the French revolution, the mallow was just a medicinal flower used for making cough syrup. But in the ensuing century, during the height of the Second Empire when France's paroxysm of wealth and speculation led to the Paris we know today as well as the inventions of department stores, high fashion, the modern perfume industry, and other luxuries (including, erm, courtesans), France was also serving as a birthplace of the restaurant as we know it. French cuisine was a playground of creativity, with chefs attempting to outdo each other in order to gain the coins that were falling out of the purses of the nouveau riche. Confectioners were using science to experiment with new ways to stuff mouths full of the newly inexpensive sugars coming from the Caribbean and New Orleans (constant reminder needed how much slavery played a part in this).